![]() ![]() And then I used TB II on a project where TB III would have been stronger. I recently had someone give me crap for using TB III on a project when all I needed was Titebond Orginal. Check out the PSI strength ratings below. But in my opinion, not enough to justify paying the cost difference between the three varieties. Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. ![]() ![]() As an aside, you might also look at Titebond Extend if you need even more open time. So for those complex glue-ups, Titebond III would be a good choice. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. If you have a project that will be submerged for short periods or exposed to ambient moisture for extended periods, consider Titebond III. So if you have a project that will be exposed to light water (cutting boards, outdoor furniture, etc.), Titebond II will suffice. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). The second difference is water resistance. Looking at Rockler’s current pricing on quarts, we have $8.59 for Titebond Original, $10.49 for Titebond II, and $13.99 for Titebond III. The first one you probably already noticed is the price. But in my opinion, there are only a few factors that really make a difference to the average woodworker. There are actually a number of differences between the three glue types if you dig into the details. Everyone has this question at one point or another. Is there any real significant difference between Titebond Original, II, and III wood glues? Is one really better than another? Thanks for your time. Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. Here’s a fundamental question from Jason. ![]()
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